Monday, April 4, 2011

Gnarlywine: Only in California

Only in California will you find the use of "gnarly" so inviting that a brewery will incorporate such a word into a beer. Often considered a winter warmer, a barleywine is something I find very appropriate for the coming of spring as well. Barleywines, first conceived by the British, are known for deep complexity, a good dose of hops, plenty of aging and, consequently, a high alcohol percentage. It's those strong beers that are supposed to get us through the long, cold winters. But this is beer in California, so we don't have much of that around here. Why not take this brew to the West Coast and add a little Northern California signature to it? 

That's exactly what Laguintas in Petaluma, CA have done with their Olde Gnarlywine, a 10.6% abv barleywine that is pleasant from start to finish. Gnarly is a beautiful sight to behold with its deep amber-red hue, something that deviates a little from the norm. The yeast does not accumulate too much foam but retains a notable layer that catalyzes the tasting experience (I like that word, catalyze!). When you take in the Gnarly aroma, you'll get something that is a hybrid of a fresh hop ale and a barrel aged brew. Citrus and a plethora of flora will Eskimo kiss your nose with gusto. A spice somewhere between coriander and clove will make its way through your nostrils as will a woody-like aroma — possibly cedar. I'd also like to note that while you get a representation of West Coast hops, you don't pull in the piny sensations that West Coast brewers are so loyal  to; this is refreshing to me. I'll give aroma a spot-on 5/5.

When you sip this brew, you'll get a little more maltiness than expected — after all, you've inhaled something deceivingly hoppy — thus staying true to its English roots. It's a little difficult to capture the specific flavors since a rush of alcohol scoots across your palette and gives you a bit of a tingle in your gulliver. But its rich, malty taste driven by its citric hops and aging comes together in a smooth, syrup-like libation. It would have been interesting had Lagunitas dry-hopped this; maybe they did and did not post it on their website. I would have liked to see the balance come full circle, but I think with a barleywine that might be asking too much.

The great thing about a Barleywine is that the flavor will evolve over time, often for the better. According to Lagunitas you'll pick up more toffee and caramel notes if you age this beer. So perhaps I procured a young Gnarly in its first or second life stage. I would be wise to purchase one of these up and store it somewhere for next year or the year after. An excellent beer.

4/5 an excellent beer, an innovative West Coast take on a barleywine.

You Stay Hoppy California,
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